So you've finished your entire garment and "all you have left" are the buttons. Here are several helpful tips when putting your finishing touch onto your piece:
Tip#1:
The placement of the button on a casual shirt and/or jacket is half the button width from the edge. The spacing and number of buttons is up to you! Remember, you don't always have to do what the pattern says. You're the designer!
Tip#2:
Use dental floss as your thread to secure a shank button.
Tip#3:
Use a clear back-up button for a high stress areas.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Staystitch vs. Stay Tape
The most commonly known method for prevention of stretching and distortion of cut pieces is to staystitch. Most seamstresses are unaware of the use of stay tape.
Staystitch is a useful aid during the construction process. You stitch a line on a single layer of fabric just inside the seamline in the seam allowance. This is different from a basting stitch, because basting is a longer looser stitch that holds two pieces together before your final stitching. Staystitching involving one piece of a fabric with tighter, smaller stitches. It will hold the grain line where you need it and prevent stretching. However, staystitch does not prevent stretching during daily, normal wear and tear. Stay tape will lengthen the life of your garment, because it ensures that your garment will not stretch during daily wear.
There are two kinds of stay tape: straight and bias. You will need the straight tape when you don't need any kind of movement in the garment such as collar, waist, etc. The bias tape is best for places on your garment that need some movement such as armholes.
Staystitch is a useful aid during the construction process. You stitch a line on a single layer of fabric just inside the seamline in the seam allowance. This is different from a basting stitch, because basting is a longer looser stitch that holds two pieces together before your final stitching. Staystitching involving one piece of a fabric with tighter, smaller stitches. It will hold the grain line where you need it and prevent stretching. However, staystitch does not prevent stretching during daily, normal wear and tear. Stay tape will lengthen the life of your garment, because it ensures that your garment will not stretch during daily wear.
There are two kinds of stay tape: straight and bias. You will need the straight tape when you don't need any kind of movement in the garment such as collar, waist, etc. The bias tape is best for places on your garment that need some movement such as armholes.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Do I really need a dressform?
Dressforms are an investment and many women wonder if it's worth the money or not. If you want to invest the choice is, of course, up to you personally, but here are some benefits to owning your own dressform.
A dressform allows you to hang a garment during construction to assess the design during work. This will let you know ahead of time if a piece is not draping properly. When you are finished you can check for "surprises" that show up before you or a client tries it on for the hemming.
"But what if the dress form doesn't exactly match my measurements?"
A little trick of the trade for you! Measure all bust, waist, and hip measurements then adjust the form to most closely match your body size. If needed you can add shoulder pads to strategically enhance the bust, hip, or bottom.
What dressforms are your favorite? Which ones do you not recommend?
A dressform allows you to hang a garment during construction to assess the design during work. This will let you know ahead of time if a piece is not draping properly. When you are finished you can check for "surprises" that show up before you or a client tries it on for the hemming.
"But what if the dress form doesn't exactly match my measurements?"
A little trick of the trade for you! Measure all bust, waist, and hip measurements then adjust the form to most closely match your body size. If needed you can add shoulder pads to strategically enhance the bust, hip, or bottom.
What dressforms are your favorite? Which ones do you not recommend?
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
What is "Cutting on the Bias?"
Have you ever heard someone throw around the phrase, "Cut it on the bias," and wonder what they're talking about?
When you place your pattern piece on the fabric to be cut you can line up your grain line in three different ways: straight grain, cross grain, and bias. Straight grain is when your grain line is parallel with your selvage edge. Cross grain is when your grain line is perpendicular to your selvage. However, when you cut your pattern piece "on the bias" it means that you are placing your grain line at an angle. A true bias is placed 45 degrees from the selvage edge.
Cutting a garment piece, such as a skirt, on the bias will create a lighter, more draped effect. It will allow the fabric to cling or follow the curve of the body. This cutting technique is most commonly used for cutting collars and cuffs, because the bias allows the fabric to create a curve.
When you place your pattern piece on the fabric to be cut you can line up your grain line in three different ways: straight grain, cross grain, and bias. Straight grain is when your grain line is parallel with your selvage edge. Cross grain is when your grain line is perpendicular to your selvage. However, when you cut your pattern piece "on the bias" it means that you are placing your grain line at an angle. A true bias is placed 45 degrees from the selvage edge.
Cutting a garment piece, such as a skirt, on the bias will create a lighter, more draped effect. It will allow the fabric to cling or follow the curve of the body. This cutting technique is most commonly used for cutting collars and cuffs, because the bias allows the fabric to create a curve.
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