What is "Cutting on the Bias?"

Have you ever heard someone throw around the phrase, "Cut it on the bias," and wonder what they're talking about?

When you place your pattern piece on the fabric to be cut you can line up your grain line in three different ways: straight grain, cross grain, and bias. Straight grain is when your grain line is parallel with your selvage edge. Cross grain is when your grain line is perpendicular to your selvage. However, when you cut your pattern piece "on the bias" it means that you are placing your grain line at an angle. A true bias is placed 45 degrees from the selvage edge.

Cutting a garment piece, such as a skirt, on the bias will create a lighter, more draped effect. It will allow the fabric to cling or follow the curve of the body. This cutting technique is most commonly used for cutting collars and cuffs, because the bias allows the fabric to create a curve.